For most, the Festival of Lightsconjures up images of chocolate coins and fried latkes. But ask brothers and chefs-turned-cookbook authors Max and Eli Sussmanfor a Hanukkahrecipe, and what you’ll get are entirely unexpectedtakes on customaryJewish fried foods, like their recipe for Arroz con Pollo Arancini. For the Sussmans, looking attraditional foods through a contemporarylens is simplya way of life (for more, check out their 2014 book, Classic Recipes for Modern People, which takes on old school recipes like gefilte fish and hash browns, then tweaks them to feel fresh).
We turned to Max and Eli for some advice about whatto put on this year’s Hanukkah table. Our one requirement? No latkes (we’ve already got plenty of those covered).From brisket and potato kugel to kibbeh with tzatziki, here are their suggestions for a unique (but highly delicious) Hanukkah meal.
Brisket and Potato Kugel
Serves 8-10
Brisket
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 lb (1 kg) beef brisket, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
Pinch of kosher salt
1 yellow onion, finely diced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tsp firmly packed light brown sugar
1 Tbsp tomato paste
2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) chicken stock
Pinch of red pepper flakes
1/3 cup (3 fl oz/80 ml) vegetable oil
Kosher salt
3 lb (1.5 kg) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces
1 yellow onion, minced
7 large eggs, beaten
1 tsp freshly ground pepper
To make the brisket, in a wide pot, heat the olive oil over high heat. When the oil is very hot, add the brisket and salt and cook, stirring, until browned, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, and sauté until the onion is softened and caramelized, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic, brown sugar, and tomato paste and sauté for 3—4 minutes. Add the stock and red pepper flakes and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the meat is falling apart and tender, 2—3 hours. Add water if the pan begins to dry. The meat should be just barely covered with liquid when it is ready. If there is too much liquid at the end, transfer the liquid to a small saucepan and simmer over medium-high heat until reduced. Set the brisket aside.
Pour the vegetable oil into a 9-by-13-inch (23-by-33-cm) baking pan and place in the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes and cook for 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water.
Working in batches, pulse the potatoes in a food processor, leaving them slightly chunky, with pieces no larger than 1⁄4 inch (6 mm). (Be careful not to overprocess, or they will be gluey.) Transfer to a large bowl and add the onion, eggs, 1 tablespoon salt, and the pepper.
Remove the pan from the oven and spoon in half of the potato mixture, spreading it evenly to the edges of the pan. Spread the brisket evenly on top, then cover with the remaining potatoes.
Bake until the potatoes are tender and the top is crispy, about 1 1⁄2 hours. Let cool slightly before serving.
Arroz con Pollo Arancini
Makes about 20 balls
1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 yellow onion, finely diced
2 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1/2-inch (1-cm) pieces
1/2 cup (2 1/2 oz/75 g) finely diced carrot
1/2 cup (2 1/2 oz/75 g) finely diced red bell pepper
1 jalapeño chile, seeded and finely diced
1 garlic clove, minced
3/4 cup (51/2 oz/170 g) jasmine rice
1 Tbsp unsalted butter
1 1/4 cups (10 fl oz/310 ml) chicken stock
Kosher salt
1 bunch fresh cilantro, leaves chopped and stems minced
1 cup (5 oz/155 g) crumbled queso fresco
1 cup (5 oz/155 g) all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, beaten
1 cup (1 1/2 oz/45 g) panko bread crumbs
Salsa Verde Mayonnaise
2 jalapeño chiles, seeded
2 tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and halved
1 bunch fresh cilantro
1 garlic clove
1/2 avocado, pitted, peeled, and quartered
Kosher salt
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp mayonnaise
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, chicken, carrot, bell pepper, jalapeño, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and the chicken is tender and fully cooked, about 30 minutes. Add the rice and butter and cook, stirring often, until the rice is fragrant, about 5 minutes.
Add the stock and 1teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand for 30 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork and let stand until cool enough to handle. Transfer the rice to a bowl, add the cilantro and queso fresco, and toss to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt.
Form the rice mixture into balls the size of Ping-Pong balls, using about 2 tablespoons for each one.
Put the flour, eggs, and panko into separate bowls. One at a time, dredge the rice balls in the flour, then coat with the eggs, and finally toss to coat well with the panko, shaking off any excess after each step. As the balls are breaded, place them on a baking sheet. Refrigerate the balls until ready to fry.
To make the mayonnaise, in a food processor, combine the jalapeños, tomatillos, cilantro, garlic, avocado, 1 teaspoon salt, the olive oil, 1⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) water, and the mayonnaise. Purée until smooth and blended. Transfer to a bowl. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Pour the canola oil into a large, deep pot to a depth of 3 inches (7.5 cm) and heat to 350°F (180°C). Working in batches to avoid crowding, add the rice balls and fry until golden brown and heated through, 2—3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain.
Serve right away with the mayonnaise.
Kibbeh and Tzatziki
Serves 6-8
Tzatziki
1 cup (8 oz/250 g) whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 Kirby cucumber, grated on the large holes of a box grater
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 tsp kosher salt
Juice of 1 lemon
Roughly chopped fresh dill for garnish
2 cups (12 oz/375 g) bulgur
1 Tbsp kosher salt
1 Tbsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp sweet Spanish paprika
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 lb (1 kg) ground beef or lamb
1 yellow onion, minced
1/4 cup (1 1/2 oz/45 g) golden raisins, minced
1/4 cup (1 1/4 oz/40 g) pine nuts, toasted
1 small jalapeño chile, seeded and minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
To make the tzatziki, in a small bowl, stir together the yogurt, cucumber, garlic, salt, and lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Put the bulgur in a bowl, add water to cover, and let soak for 30 minutes.
In a small bowl, stir together the salt, cumin, coriander, paprika, and cayenne.
In a wide sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add half each of the beef, spice mixture, and onion and cook, stirring, until the beef is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, add the raisins and pine nuts, and stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate the filling until ready to use.
Drain the bulgur and transfer to a food processor. Add the remaining beef, spice mixture, and onion along with the jalapeño and garlic. Pulse until a pastelike consistency forms. Transfer the bulgur mixture to a bowl.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
To form the kibbeh, put 2 tablespoons of the bulgur mixture in the palm of your hand. Use your thumb to make a well in the center. Place a few teaspoons of the cooked beef filling in the well. Using your fingers, shape the bulgur mixture around the filling to enclose it, forming an oval. Place on the prepared baking sheet. Form the remaining kibbeh, placing them on the baking sheet as you go, then refrigerate the kibbeh.
Pour the oil into a pot to a depth of 3 inches (7.5 cm) and heat to 350°F (180°C). Add 3 or 4 kibbeh to the hot oil (leave enough space so they are not touching one other), and fry until browned and cooked through, 3—4 minutes. To test, remove an oval from the oil and break it open to see if it is fully cooked. If it is not, reduce the heat slightly and continue cooking until fully cooked. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat to fry the remaining kibbeh.
Sprinkle the tzatziki with the dill. Serve the kibbeh hot with the tzatziki alongside.
Recipes reprinted with permission byClassic Recipes for Modern People, by Max and Eli Sussman. Copyright © 2014. Published by Olive Press, an imprint ofWeldon Owen, Inc. and Williams-Sonoma, Inc.
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